My daughter enrolled in a leadership camp at "Four Winds" in Occidental, CA. It was offered by Girl Scouts of America as a reward for top cookie sellers. My original plan was to drop her off and then spend the day in Santa Rosa, checking out the Russian River Brewery. However, upon arriving at camp, I saw beautiful views westward toward the Pacific Ocean and I got sucked in.
Coleman Valley Road takes you from Occidental to the Coast. It meanders past the Four Winds Camp and along high grassy hills. It is mostly a single lane road, but well paved. The westward views from his road, alone, are enough to attract intrepid motorists. Upon descent down to the Coast, the smell of salt water developed in the air and I arrived at a relatively sleepy section of Hwy 1. I drove north into Sonoma Coast State Beach park. I actually hadn't eaten anything that morning, so I stopped at this Russian restaurant along the Russian river, I forgot the name but whatever it is, don't go there for breakfast. They offered cold pancakes as their only option. No bagels, no ability to just serve up a continental style meal.
Further down the road I arrived at the town of Jenner. I was happy to come upon the Café Aquatica. A shanty-style venue right on the mouth of the Russian River. They had good blends of tea and I ordered delicious toasted focaccia bread to complete my breakfast. I sat on a wooden Adirondack chair and stared out across the water while honey bees took nectar from the yellow flowering bushes in the yard. There were a few other tourist customers all enjoying the morning sun and their coffee. A guy with a half-smoked joint hanging from his lips arrived next to me while I ate and set up a drum set and a giant tip bucket. I couldn't imagine why anyone would need to hear drums at this serene location but, no matter, I had to move on anyway. Arriving at the tourist information center some helpful older women (volunteers?) directed me to park at Shell Beach and hike northward to Goat Rock. So, I did.
This was a great day to be a day-hiker on a beach in Sonoma. There was a driven wind and high sea advisory. The surf was crashing into the rocky outcroppings in the water. It wasn't enough to scare away one surfer, who was doing yoga following a morning session. There was also one harbor seal out in the water - I guess a seal's gotta eat even in the rough surf.
The breeze was strong enough to keep things cool while trekking in the sunny open meadows above the beach. I headed north straight out of the Shell Beach parking area. My map told me it was 2.5 miles from there to Goat Rock. I figured a 5 mile jaunt would make for a good day hike.
At first there was an easy walk across bog bridges and double track road/trail. A little muddy still from spring rains. About halfway between the ends of this out-and-back hike is the highest point in elevation, a separate side trail takes one to the peak of this hill and offers elevated views of the entire scene. Wildflowers were in bloom everywhere. Heading north along the trail it was pretty much all downhill through another parking area and to the beach. Once on the beach, there are warning signs for the surf advisory, rip tides, and "sleeper waves." But all I found was a receding tide and a lot of pretty shiny pebbles.
I guess I got there early enough that foot traffic was moderate. By the time I got back to the parking area there were cars parking along the shoulder of the road already (noonish). When all was said and done it felt shorter than 5 miles, but I have no way of measuring the time and distance because I stopped often to take pictures. I would characterize this hike as just enough of a work out to make young children and out of shape people sweat a little, but not really difficult at all for a fit adult. I am guessing it was not more than 300 feet of climb total, all day. As with most of the Pacific Coast on a sunny day it was gorgeous. Well worth the trip. I would consider bringing my family back and using the campgrounds in the area. It was also nice stopping by Bodega Bay for some fresh crabs. And, yes, after picking up my daughter I still made sure to stop by the Russian River Brewery to grab some Plinys.
Update: I just learned of the tragic death of three people on Blind Beach, a segment that was part of my hike back in 2017, but I didn't mention it by name. Very sad that a place so inspiring and beautiful could cause such loss. My heart goes out to his surviving wife. Nature's fury can be powerful. https://abc7news.com/blind-beach-sonoma-county-drowning-man-drowned-in-north-bay-children-missing-at-california/9349740/
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