I am a hiker and outdoor enthusiast living in Northern California. I seek to start and contribute to discussions about hiking, trails, trail running, public lands, travel, adventure, hunting, fishing, a bit of history, and related topics.
Monday, August 10, 2020
Social Distancing Family Hike on the JMT/PCT
Girls atop Goodale PassIn an attempt to get away from all this Covid-19 malaise I took 4/6ths of my family on a trip to the John Muir and Ansel Adams Wildernesses. We hiked very hard, but had a great experience and were able to live in our own moment, if only for a few days, before we were whisked back to reality.
My oldest daughter's scout troop secured a permit for this trek, but then the troop made the collective decision to not proceed. Offered the chance to use the permit outside of the troop activity, we were happy to oblige. This was our first hike on the John Muir Trail (JMT) and second hike on the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) hike this summer, with an earlier trip to Crater Lake, OR featuring this same cast of characters. On that occasion we hiked 28 miles in four days. For this trip, we added a day, and totaled about 42ish miles. We're not quite sure on the total because we have conflicting data from different maps, GPS, etc.
The hike began with a challenging drive along one of the sketchiest paved roads one might encounter. Heading up from Fresno past Huntington Lake and onto the Kaiser Pass Road, we wound our way through Mono Hot Springs and onto the Vermillion Valley Resort (VVR). And by resort I mean "last resort." This was no Sandals (tm), but I gather most of the clientele at VVR like it that way. It had all the necessities of a hiker stop over. They supplied good hot meals through their restaurant; had a convenience store selling single batteries, razors; and Ziploc bags; hot showers; a free camping zone; laundry services; and a ferry that ran across a great big fake lake (Thomas Edison) so that threadbare and weary JMT and PCT thru-hikers wouldn't have to log the extra miles to make it to camp. The staff there was very friendly and folks were generally complying with Covid precautions, which was heartening considering the remoteness.
We slept in a National Forest campground directly adjacent to VVR. In the morning we opted to avoid the ferry across the lake, due to Covid concerns, and instead started our hike from the Mono Creek trailhead in earnest along the North side of the lake. It was a pretty hike, open to the sun and a bit rocky with all the granite. (Note to self: consider dispersed camping/fishing at one of the sites along the shore there.) But the extra miles we put in added up. After the steep climb from Quail Meadow we opted against completing our initial first day goal of reaching Silver Pass Lake, and instead opted to camp the first night at Pocket Meadow. We had passed many hikers along the way, mostly southbound JMT thru-hikers. Not quite used to the 10,000 ft elevations that first day, our lungs told us it was time to turn it in.
My oldest daughter's scout troop secured a permit for this trek, but then the troop made the collective decision to not proceed. Offered the chance to use the permit outside of the troop activity, we were happy to oblige. This was our first hike on the John Muir Trail (JMT) and second hike on the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) hike this summer, with an earlier trip to Crater Lake, OR featuring this same cast of characters. On that occasion we hiked 28 miles in four days. For this trip, we added a day, and totaled about 42ish miles. We're not quite sure on the total because we have conflicting data from different maps, GPS, etc.
The hike began with a challenging drive along one of the sketchiest paved roads one might encounter. Heading up from Fresno past Huntington Lake and onto the Kaiser Pass Road, we wound our way through Mono Hot Springs and onto the Vermillion Valley Resort (VVR). And by resort I mean "last resort." This was no Sandals (tm), but I gather most of the clientele at VVR like it that way. It had all the necessities of a hiker stop over. They supplied good hot meals through their restaurant; had a convenience store selling single batteries, razors; and Ziploc bags; hot showers; a free camping zone; laundry services; and a ferry that ran across a great big fake lake (Thomas Edison) so that threadbare and weary JMT and PCT thru-hikers wouldn't have to log the extra miles to make it to camp. The staff there was very friendly and folks were generally complying with Covid precautions, which was heartening considering the remoteness.
We slept in a National Forest campground directly adjacent to VVR. In the morning we opted to avoid the ferry across the lake, due to Covid concerns, and instead started our hike from the Mono Creek trailhead in earnest along the North side of the lake. It was a pretty hike, open to the sun and a bit rocky with all the granite. (Note to self: consider dispersed camping/fishing at one of the sites along the shore there.) But the extra miles we put in added up. After the steep climb from Quail Meadow we opted against completing our initial first day goal of reaching Silver Pass Lake, and instead opted to camp the first night at Pocket Meadow. We had passed many hikers along the way, mostly southbound JMT thru-hikers. Not quite used to the 10,000 ft elevations that first day, our lungs told us it was time to turn it in.
Our campsite was serene, in the middle of a big grassy meadow. The dinner was a backpacker's vegan curry I pulled off the internet and put together in a bag. It was delicious, but a bit spicy for my 10 and 13 year old daughters. A very bright full moon kept us from sleeping very well that night. Shame on the Moon!
The next day it was up and over Silver Pass, with sweeping views in all directions of the vast Sierra Nevada Mountains. The jagged peaks in our immediate area were a stunning foreground for scenery and background for our photos. We were short of breath as we former Coloradans-turned-flatlanders sat at elevation for lunch, recovering from the last few switchbacks of our ascent. We eventually camped at a much lower elevation, down along a waterfall beneath a bridge on the creek that lead through Tully's hole. We took refreshing dips in the cold water. Let's say I have been in colder water, but this was still more than just chilly on my freeze-o-meter. Felt great on hot swollen feet though!
The next day it was up and over Silver Pass, with sweeping views in all directions of the vast Sierra Nevada Mountains. The jagged peaks in our immediate area were a stunning foreground for scenery and background for our photos. We were short of breath as we former Coloradans-turned-flatlanders sat at elevation for lunch, recovering from the last few switchbacks of our ascent. We eventually camped at a much lower elevation, down along a waterfall beneath a bridge on the creek that lead through Tully's hole. We took refreshing dips in the cold water. Let's say I have been in colder water, but this was still more than just chilly on my freeze-o-meter. Felt great on hot swollen feet though!
Day three brought with it a couple rainbow trout at Virginia and Purple Lakes. After a morning up from Tully's hole, we had lunch at Virginia lake featured peanut butter and jelly pitas, jerky, assorted dried fruits, and lemonade. While my daughter sunned on her towel I caught a 10 inch rainbow trout using 3/4 of my backpacker's fly rod, then end piece having been left at home. We set that one free and set out on the last leg of our hike that day - to Purple Lake. Arriving at the lake we faced a challenging quest for a suitable camp spot, but in the end found one just uphill from a nice shore/meadow on the south side of the lake. I was finally tired enough to sleep despite the glaring moonlight. Then, at 2:00 a.m. I was rudely awakened from under my tarp by a squirrel who crashed into my head. It must have been darting down a pre-programmed running route and didn't observe me lying. After having been once bitten by a ground squirrel years ago, this makes for the second tort that squirrels have committed against me. I don't know what their problem is, I have never been squirrel hunting so this is not karma.
The fourth day brought the toughest hiking and the biggest test of our spirits. It started out well enough, with a big down hill hike into a meadow. We passed giant ponderosa pines and, if I wasn't hallucinating, even a relatively small giant Sequoia. It was beautiful. What non hikers might not understand about hiking downhill is that it sometimes can be as challenging as uphill. There is something about the impact of each descending stride, the toes compressed toward the front of one's boots, and the strain on continuously bent knees that adds up. So, by the time we finished our 1000 foot drop down to the meadow below we were sore already. We did get to relax for lunch, but then had to hike right back up onto the mountains on the other side of the valley. My 10 year old daughter was flagging as the day wore on. I even helped carry some of her gear so that she could keep a pace. She had an REI Tarn 40 pack, sized for kids. We filled it only with her essentials and clothing so that it would be light. But I basically reduced her load down to the weight of her water, which meant I became "Super Sherpa!" My feat was not witnessed by many, as we were now off the JMT the constant stream of hikers slowed to a trickle. We saw two hikers all day.
And, yes, that day kicked my butt. We passed so many cool lakes that were begging for us to pitch our tent, but we knew we had to press on so that our last day mileage would be feasible. We rolled up to Lone Indian Lake at 6:30ish. Kind of a late day for even us. But it set us up nicely for a pretty sunset and a relatively easy "up" the next morning over Goodale Pass.
On the last day out we finished a long descent back to VVR and our car. We passed numerous weekenders and a church group who were way overloaded for their hike in to Graveyard Lakes. A couple young girls with that group called it quits and forced their group to split up in order for the trip to continue. The trip leader's backpack appeared to hold 160 liter capacity, before you add in the stuff hanging off of it. Collectively, the group appeared overweight and overloaded. I wanted to say something but believe firmly in the "hike your own hike" mantra. Since I didn't perceive any threat to safety I just told them they had a mile to go, uphill, before the next water and I proceeded to hike back to my car.
Arriving back at the trailhead, we loaded up and drove to VVR, where we were greeted with cold beer, a hot meal, and the kindness of the hiking community. I ordered the roast beef sandwich, my daughters had chili fries and a chicken sandwich and my wife at something healthy. I was impressed with the fresh veggies at this remote location, for what it's worth. And, did I mention I had a cold beer? We were debating staying but there was still enough daylight to escape on the Kaiser Pass road and we as a family were looking forward to a hotel bed and a hot shower. So, away we drove.
I will totally be going back to this area, there are hungry fish in almost every lake, hot springs that we couldn't even include in our itinerary, and sweeping vistas. We loved it. Almost as pretty as Yosemite but not nearly the amount of tourists, particularly when you get off the main JMT/PCT thoroughfare. On the ride home my wife described the mostly contiguous wilderness area created by Yosemite, Ansel Adams and John Muir Wilderness areas, and Sequoia Kings Canyon and it is truly a large are of remote country in the middle of our nation's most populous state. Well worth a look for hikers.
Gear notes: I brought with me a home made Tyvek bivy sack. It was not a smashing success. The sack developed an unusual amount of condensation on the inside. No problem on this trip, but when I go out in bad weather I can't afford to have a wet sleeping bag. Also, I if I did this trip again I would just bring a sack and hang my food in a tree, versus the cumbersome Bear Vaults that we used. There are enough trees in this area.
And, yes, that day kicked my butt. We passed so many cool lakes that were begging for us to pitch our tent, but we knew we had to press on so that our last day mileage would be feasible. We rolled up to Lone Indian Lake at 6:30ish. Kind of a late day for even us. But it set us up nicely for a pretty sunset and a relatively easy "up" the next morning over Goodale Pass.
On the last day out we finished a long descent back to VVR and our car. We passed numerous weekenders and a church group who were way overloaded for their hike in to Graveyard Lakes. A couple young girls with that group called it quits and forced their group to split up in order for the trip to continue. The trip leader's backpack appeared to hold 160 liter capacity, before you add in the stuff hanging off of it. Collectively, the group appeared overweight and overloaded. I wanted to say something but believe firmly in the "hike your own hike" mantra. Since I didn't perceive any threat to safety I just told them they had a mile to go, uphill, before the next water and I proceeded to hike back to my car.
Arriving back at the trailhead, we loaded up and drove to VVR, where we were greeted with cold beer, a hot meal, and the kindness of the hiking community. I ordered the roast beef sandwich, my daughters had chili fries and a chicken sandwich and my wife at something healthy. I was impressed with the fresh veggies at this remote location, for what it's worth. And, did I mention I had a cold beer? We were debating staying but there was still enough daylight to escape on the Kaiser Pass road and we as a family were looking forward to a hotel bed and a hot shower. So, away we drove.
I will totally be going back to this area, there are hungry fish in almost every lake, hot springs that we couldn't even include in our itinerary, and sweeping vistas. We loved it. Almost as pretty as Yosemite but not nearly the amount of tourists, particularly when you get off the main JMT/PCT thoroughfare. On the ride home my wife described the mostly contiguous wilderness area created by Yosemite, Ansel Adams and John Muir Wilderness areas, and Sequoia Kings Canyon and it is truly a large are of remote country in the middle of our nation's most populous state. Well worth a look for hikers.
Gear notes: I brought with me a home made Tyvek bivy sack. It was not a smashing success. The sack developed an unusual amount of condensation on the inside. No problem on this trip, but when I go out in bad weather I can't afford to have a wet sleeping bag. Also, I if I did this trip again I would just bring a sack and hang my food in a tree, versus the cumbersome Bear Vaults that we used. There are enough trees in this area.
My daughter excited to finish!
Until next time!
Rangersmith
ME-GA 1997
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